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There are certain watches that aren’t just iconic; they’re horological landmarks. Pieces that so perfectly solved a problem or captured a moment in time that they became legends. In our opinion, the Gruen Curvex is, without a doubt, one of those watches. It is arguably the most brilliant and important American-designed timepiece of the Art Deco era, a true masterpiece of form and function.
The genius of the Curvex, introduced in 1935, was its revolutionary solution to a fundamental design challenge. As wristwatches grew more popular, demand surged for elegant, rectangular cases that contoured to the wrist. The problem was that a curved case could only house a small, flat, and often inaccurate movement. Gruen’s patented masterstroke was to create a movement that was itself curved, perfectly matching the sensual arc of the case. This allowed for a larger, more robust, and more accurate movement to be housed within an incredibly slim and comfortable watch. It was a groundbreaking achievement, and it made the Curvex an instant icon of industrial design.
This particular example, a Reference 440 from the 1940s, is a stunning expression of the Curvex ethos. Housed in a 10-karat rose gold-filled case by the renowned Wadsworth company, it possesses a wonderful warmth and an undeniable wrist presence. The defining feature, of course, is that beautiful, ergonomic curve that allows the watch to hug the wrist in a way few other timepieces can. The original dial has aged to a fantastic coppery-salmon color that perfectly complements the rose gold case. It features a full set of crisp Art Deco Arabic numerals, a classic subsidiary seconds register, and a beautiful set of thermally-blued spade hands that provide a striking pop of contrast.
